New Robotic Methods Threaten Asian Garment Manufacturing Employment, Reduce Emissions
New robotics firms are challenging traditional garment manufacturing, aiming to automate clothing production, a sector historically reliant on low-paid manual labour in Asia. While most current apparel is hand-sewn, new technologies propose entirely different fabrication methods.
CreateMe, a California-based robotics company, has developed machines that eschew sewing in favour of adhesive bonding. The firm is already producing women's underwear using this method and plans to expand to t-shirts. Founder Cam Myers states that this approach, which involves laying down adhesive and stamping fabric, simplifies the manufacturing process, making it suitable for automation.
The push for automation in garment production is driven by several factors. Re-shoring manufacturing to Western countries like the UK and US is a significant objective, with firms like CreateMe targeting the 'Made in US' market. Such a shift would drastically reduce the substantial carbon emissions associated with transporting garments globally. A study led by Gerald Feichtinger at the Technical University of Leoben suggests that manufacturing a t-shirt in Europe or the US with robots could cut associated emissions by approximately 45%.
Employment Concerns and Industry Challenges
Despite the environmental and logistical benefits, this automation poses a severe threat to the millions of textile workers in Asia, who face potential job displacement. Industry representatives often suggest workers could transition to better-paying roles, but this transformation would not occur rapidly.
Furthermore, the industry faces fundamental debates about manufacturing techniques. Palaniswamy Rajan of Softwear Automation maintains that traditional sewing will persist, noting its importance in the design of popular garments like jeans. His company is developing advanced sewing robots, claiming they can produce t-shirts at a cost competitive with imports.
Challenges remain in automating the diverse and 'high flex' nature of fashion, which demands a vast array of designs, colours, and forms. Michael Fraede of German firm Robotextile predicts it will take another decade for significant re-shoring to occur, citing the industry's ingrained focus on cost-saving. While the UK Fashion and Textile Association acknowledges the potential for robotics, it anticipates a co-existence model rather than a complete shift, with Asia likely retaining its high-volume production capacity.
